Printing Accessories

In screen printing, ink gets all the attention, but accessories make or break print quality. Wrong mesh count turns fine detail into a blob. A dull squeegee lays down inconsistent ink deposits that no amount of colour correction fixes. We've watched printers blame their ink when the real problem was a worn squeegee blade they hadn't replaced in 10,000 impressions. Get the fundamentals right and your prints follow.

Imported & Indian Filter Cloth

Woven filtration fabric for straining screen printing ink before printing. Removes dried ink skins, dust particles, thread fibres, and contaminants that cause pinholes and imperfections in the final print. Available in grades from 100 to 400 mesh. Imported filter cloth from manufacturers like Sefar and NBC Meshtec offers tighter weave tolerances. Indian-made cloth is more economical and perfectly adequate for general production.

Where it's used

Straining plastisol ink, water-based textile paste, and specialty inks before loading the screen. Critical for fine-detail work where a single particle can block a mesh opening and create a visible defect in the print. Also used for filtering solvents and cleaning solutions.

How to use it right

Stretch the filter cloth over your ink container and pour ink through it. Gravity is usually sufficient. For thicker inks, use a spatula to work the ink through the mesh. Use 200-mesh filter cloth for general plastisol work, 300-400 mesh for fine-detail or process-colour work. Replace the filter cloth when you see it stretching or when particles start pushing through instead of being caught.

Watch out for

Skipping filtration is the most common rookie shortcut, and it costs far more in ruined prints than the 30 seconds it takes to strain. If you're seeing random pinholes, specks, or small unfilled areas in your prints, unfiltered ink is the first thing to check. Imported cloth costs more but the weave is more consistent. For process colour work or halftone printing, it's worth the premium.

Storage & handling

Indefinite shelf life. It's woven fabric. Keep it clean and dry. Don't reuse filter cloth between different ink colours unless you've cleaned it thoroughly. Dried plastisol in filter cloth can be cleaned with plastisol screen wash.

Quick Comparison

T-Count US Equivalent Thread Dia. (micron) Open Area % Primary Use
34T 86 US 100-120 46-52% Heavy plastisol, glitter ink, puff ink
43T 110 US 80-100 40-46% General plastisol, athletic printing
62T 156 US 64-76 36-42% General purpose, spot colour textile
77T 195 US 55-64 31-37% Fine text, small detail, water-based ink
90T 230 US 48-55 28-33% Halftones, simulated process colour
120T 305 US 34-40 24-29% Fine halftones, process colour (CMYK)
140T 355 US 31-34 20-25% Ultra-fine detail, UV ink, electronics
165T 420 US 27-31 17-22% Precision graphics, industrial printing

Common Questions

What mesh count should I use for my print job?

Depends on the ink type and detail level. For standard plastisol on cotton, 43T-62T. For fine text or small logos, 77T-90T. For halftone or process colour work, 90T-120T. For heavy-deposit specialty inks like puff, glitter, or metallic, 34T-43T. General rule is lower mesh gives heavier deposit but less detail, higher mesh gives finer detail but thinner ink film. If you need both opacity and detail, like a detailed design on a dark shirt, you'll use different mesh counts for the underbase (43T for thick white) and the top colours (77T-90T for detail).

What's the difference between imported and Indian filter cloth?

Core function is the same. Straining particles out of ink before printing. Imported cloth from manufacturers like Sefar or NBC Meshtec has tighter manufacturing tolerances. More uniform thread diameter, more consistent mesh openings, and higher tensile strength. That matters for fine-detail work where a single oversized opening could let a contaminant through. For general commercial printing, spot colours, bold graphics, standard plastisol work, Indian filter cloth does the job at a lower price point. We stock both and can recommend based on your application.

How often should I sharpen my squeegee?

Every 5,000 impressions as a baseline, but inspect the edge visually after every long run. Hold the blade up to a straight edge and look for rounding, nicks, or uneven wear. A sharp squeegee has a clean, square edge that shears ink cleanly off the mesh surface. A dull edge rounds over and pushes ink instead of shearing it. You get heavier, uneven deposits and loss of fine detail. For production shops running multiple shifts, a squeegee sharpener is not optional. It's one of the best investments you can make for consistent print quality.

Is this squeegee the same as a window cleaning squeegee?

Different tool entirely. A window squeegee has a soft rubber blade on a handle and pulls water off glass. A screen printing squeegee has a firm polyurethane blade (rated by hardness on the Shore A scale, typically 60-90A) mounted in a handle, and it pushes ink through mesh onto a substrate. Screen printing squeegees come in different durometers, blade profiles, and handle types (plain, wooden, aluminium) depending on the job. We stock imported screen printing squeegees, not cleaning tools.

Mesh, squeegees, stencil film, filter cloth. The accessories nobody sees in the final print but everyone notices when they're wrong. We carry imported and Indian options across the range. Not sure which mesh count or squeegee durometer suits your job? That's the kind of question we answer every day at the counter.

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